Bebek Meyhanesi

Same building, same shoreline. Here the point is not the menu but the length of the evening: music, ice, cold meze, and a table finding its own rhythm.

Two hundred covers are divided across four areas: the main room, a private alcove, a hidden garden at the back and a front garden. Water shows from the terrace, and which section you sit in largely decides how the evening will go.

The kitchen does not stay with one tradition — Turkish, Greek, Cretan and Ottoman lines run through a single list. Liver in butter served on tile and steamed sea bass are the two dishes most often asked for. Keeping the classical texture while staging the room as post-modern is this address's own formula; the two stand together.

Service begins in the early evening, runs past midnight, and the venue closes one day a week. What separates it from the other concepts in the same house is scale and programme — this is the section that takes on the large party, the long evening and the music. Alcoves that can be reserved for bigger occasions are the complex's most requested feature.